Sometimes you run into someone with attitude. Just one look and you know they’re trying to look tough. Maybe it’s a sneer, their clothes, piercings, or a hitch in their step. You know what I’m talking about.

That’s exactly the same vibe I got from when I first saw Flying Dog Brewery’s Doggie Style Classic Pale Ale. With an edgy name and seething winged canine front and center, the bottle practically barked at me. And that’s how Flying Dog likes it – all their bottle art is done by artist Ralph Steadman, who also once designed a wine bottle label that was banned in Ohio for being “disturbing”. Edgy stuff. So I cracked it open and filled my newly acquired glassware (thanks to one of my Perfectly Happy brethren).

The first thing that struck me was the aroma – the smell of hops exploded up to my nose with the power of a fresh doggy land mine, only good. The head diminished gradually above the copper-colored beer, leaving some impressive white lacing. Sight and smell had me expecting a roundhouse kick of hopped-up, dry, bitter American pale ale, but the taste was surprisingly faint. There was some citrus and a bite, but it was missing a few teeth. Only mildly hoppy with a subtle finish and a medium-light body, Doggie Style was actually one of the smoothest APA’s I’ve had. The 5.5% ABV was pretty well hidden, too. I easily could have enjoyed a second, which isn’t typical for my tastes.

Overall, I really did like Flying Dog’s Doggie Style Classic Pale Ale. It just wasn’t what I was expecting: not very pale and not very dry; a lot of bark and a little bite. If you’re a hop fiend you might find stronger, but less extreme palates will still have their tails wagging.

ABV: 5.5%

Grade: B